5 experiences around Coorong National Park

Posted 28 February, 2023 Anna Kantilaftas

The water laps against my feet. Strong gusts of cool air send ripples through the water, adding drama to the otherwise tranquil landscape. Brenton Carle from Canoe the Coorong rolls out a feast of local delicacies.

As I dine on cheese, crackers and a sip of wine, the calming sound of small waves lapping against our moored kayaks fills the air. I look across to the sandy banks just a couple of kilometres across the Coorong National Park from our spot at Sugars Beach on Hindmarsh Island. A pelican spreads its wings to the wind, before majestically taking flight to its next destination. The weather starts to turn, sending the once rippled water into tiny barrels.

There’s a familiarity to this moment that forces me into a smile. West of our picnic spot, my childhood memories float through the tides of summer days, casting lines and twisting feet in search of pipis. But from this view, things look a little different. Over a few days travelling through the Coorong, Lower Lakes and Murray Mouth region, I found new and old experiences merge in one inspiring trip.

Watch this video to see five things you must do next time you visit the Coorong and Mid Murray region:

1. Get up-close-and-personal with the animals

Heading east from Adelaide, and just a short distance from Coorong National Park, a stop at Monarto Safari Park starts the journey with a one-of-a-kind experience.

The brand-new visitor centre welcomes us to the adventure, before we board a bus with our guide, Anne, who drives us toward the special behind-the-scenes giraffe area of the park.

“We are home to the largest giraffe herd in Australia and it’s the most successful giraffe breeding institution in Australasia,” Anne shares as we pass the new lemur habitat, where visitors can get within a tail’s length of the lemur troop.

We’re handed a bucket of carrots and walk through a large gate. Before us, in a vast open paddock, several giraffe bulls stand around snacking on leaves. They’re taller and bigger than I expected, with my height barely reaching their knees. I pull a carrot from the bucket and hold it in the air.

It takes a few seconds before I’m spotted, and one of the giraffes inches his way closer. His tall neck comes down to meet me as his long tongue wraps around the carrot, taking it from my fingers. This is not an experience I’ll forget in a hurry.

Fun fact: Giraffes tongues are 40cm to 50cm long on average and are prehensile – just like human fingers.

2. Speeding into The Bend

Coming from a motoring background, there’s nothing that gets my heart pumping quite like a day on the track. Pulling up to The Bend Motorsport Park is a must for those who seek experiences fuelled by petrol and adrenaline. From go-karting to a four-wheel drive park, or hot laps around the track, there’s plenty to do for the revheads among us.

As I pull on the helmet, my heart pounds against my chest. It’s not my first time on a racetrack, but for some reason, I’m nervous.

I fumble into the low-to-the-ground Mustang. The driver, Jason, leans across to shake my hand. He tells me he has come first at Speedway Nationals, which makes me feel calmer than I was moments ago. He gently puts his foot on the accelerator, taking it easy on the first lap. We pass the black and white chequered start line, and Jason gives me a thumbs up. I return the gesture, signalling I’m okay and ready for him to take off. The car’s engine revs a little louder as he pushes the accelerator harder. My body jolts back into the seat as we launch forward, hitting speeds close to 200km/h. At each turn, every muscle in my body braces. By the time the end of the third lap comes around, I’m ready for another.

Instead, I retreat to my room at the Rydges Pit Lane Hotel, where my balcony overlooks the pit lane. Just a few metres away, I hear go-karts buzzing around a track that mirrors the turns of the main course. That’s an adventure for another day.

Fun fact: Mark Webber, Mick Doohan and Mark Skaife helped design the track.

3. Off the beaten track

As we enter the Coorong National Park, the landscape changes. To one side, a mass of water moves with the wind, each tiny ripple contributing to the larger masterpiece that is the Coorong. Birds squawk, whistle and chirp to their own  melodies. The wind plays backup and the occasional beat of rain dropping on the roof completes the troop.

“The water in the Coorong has become very saline… especially in the southern lagoon due to lower freshwater inflows,” says Nick, our guide from National Parks and Wildlife Service South Australia.

“It’s saltier than the sea now,” Nick continues. “Options are being investigated to improve the southern lagoon including allowing water from the ocean into the Coorong to make it fresher.

“There has also been some restoration of natural surface water flow paths to bring water from further south and discharging into the Coorong at Salt Creek as it once did historically.

“It will be interesting to see the area respond to high freshwater inflows associated with flooding in the River Murray. The area will be teeming with new life.”

The birdlife has been heavily impacted, and while it looks abundant on this trip, I recall years when the area and water were covered with migratory bird species. It’s listed as a Ramsar site for the role it plays in supporting rare and endangered plants and animals, as well as significant populations of waterbird and fish species.

Home to the Ngarrindjeri people, the Coorong and Lower Lakes is culturally significant and was one of the most heavily populated areas due to its abundance of fresh water, animals, fish and birdlife.

Today, there are about 20 campgrounds within the 20,000 hectares of national park, each with its own landscape, walking trails and scenery. Despite being close to a number of townships and major centres, the area creates a feeling of being in the wilderness and allows visitors to reconnect.

We pass through Salt Creek, the gateway to the southern Coorong, and onto Ninety Mile Beach, a popular surf and fishing spot that’s only accessible by four-wheel-drive. I walk down the beach, my feet sinking in the soft sand and crunching through the thick layer of crushed shells that mirror the ocean’s edge. The moody weather sets the tone for the end of our tour through the Coorong National Park, leaving me wanting more and wondering why we didn’t venture this way more often when we were kids.

Ensure you’re prepared before travelling off-road.

Fun fact: Ngarrindjeri Nation is made up of 18 different language groups known as ‘Lakinyeri’.