Making it to the top
Here in Australia, we might not have mountain ranges as mighty as the Himalayas or Andes, but we’re blessed with incredibly diverse landscapes.
From the high alpine regions and rainforests of the eastern states to the rust red rocks of the outback, we take a look at the highest peaks in each of the states and territories in continental Australia.
South Australia
On a world scale, the 710m-high Mount Lofty is barely a foothill. Further north in the Flinders Ranges, among the bluffs surrounding Wilpena Pound, Ngarri Mudlanha (St Mary Peak) is 461m higher at 1171m.
But the tallest peak in South Australia is the 1435m-high Ngarutjaranya (Mount Woodroffe) in the Musgrave Ranges, just below the Northern Territory border in Anangu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara (APY) land.
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Ngarutjaranya is on APY Land, so a permit is required for access. These are rarely given to individual travellers but Diverse Travel Australia runs once-a-year Ngarutjaranya climbing tours in May, which depart from Uluru and include a permit. However, this year’s trip hasn’t been approved by the APY Executive due to concerns about the spread of COVID-19.
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Western Australia
Wirlbiwirlbi (Mount Meharry) sits among the rocky hills of the Hamersley Range in the iron-rich Pilbara region. It’s named after William Thomas Meharry who was WA’s Chief Geodetic Surveyor from 1959 to 1967. Meharry’s calculations confirmed the mountain to be the state’s highest, bumping the previous claimant for the title – nearby Mount Bruce – to second place.
At 1248m, Mount Meharry beat Mount Bruce by a mere 14m.
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The turnoff to Mount Meharry (Packsaddle Road) is 123km north of Newman via the sealed Great Northern Highway. It’s almost opposite the road to BHP Mine Site, Area C.
The 37km-long access road is unsealed, becoming more track-like the further you travel. The Karijini National Park boundary is reached at about 29km.
This is a very remote area suitable only for fully prepared travellers in high clearance off-road vehicles.
The base of the mountain is 34km from the highway. From here, experienced off-roaders in high clearance four-wheel-drive vehicles with low range can tackle the steep, rocky scramble over the last 3km to the summit.
Everybody else can park at the base and attempt the steep, rocky scramble in a sturdy pair of shoes.
The views across the rugged, iron-orange tinted Hamersley Range should make it all worthwhile.
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Tasmania
Named after Mount Ossa in Greece for some reason, Tasmania’s highest mountain sits among the wilds of Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, in the state’s north west.
Until surveying equipment improved, it was thought that Cradle Mountain was taller than Mount Ossa.
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In the spirit of “getting there is half the fun,” access to Mount Ossa is via the Overland Track, a 65km walking trail between Cradle Mountain and Lake Sinclair, which takes about six days to complete.
This is one of Australia’s premier hiking experiences and considerable preparation is needed before setting off. Bookings can be made through the Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service. There are six huts en route, available on a ‘first in best dressed’ basis. Good thing you carried a tent.
The side trip to 1617m-high Mount Ossa leaves the track at Pelion Gap, about 40km south of Cradle Mountain/Dove Lake. It takes about four to five hours to complete the 5.5km-return trip to the summit. The final climb along a well-marked route is very steep and involves a fair bit of rock clambering.
But you’re on the top of Tasmania, so views from the summit are sensational.
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Queensland
Rising to a height of 1622m, Mount Bartle Frere pokes up through the rainforest wilderness of Wooroonooran National Park in Far North Queensland. The national park is part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, and is a place of raging waterfalls, deep gorges and the odd leech hitching a ride on a hiker’s leg.
To the local Noongyanbudda Ngadjon people, the mountain is a deeply spiritual location known as Chooreechillum. It was given its European moniker in 1873 by Scottish explorer George Augustus Frederick Elphinstone Dalrymple, in honour of Sir Henry Bartle Edward Frere, the former Governor of Bombay in India.
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The most popular starting point is the Josephine Falls car park, 31km north-west of Innisfail via sealed roads. There’s also a trailhead to the west of the mountain, but access requires travelling over a section of unsealed road.
There are four designated camp sites – two on each approach to the mountain – and these must be pre-booked before heading off. There are no facilities, so hikers need to be self-sufficient.
Although well-marked, the trails are only suitable for fit, experienced trekkers. Be prepared for scrambling over tree roots and boulders, and a steep climb to the summit.
Both trails are about 15km return, and Queensland National Parks recommends allowing two days to complete the trip.
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Victoria
Deep in the Victorian alps, the 1986m-high Mount Bogong is on Jaitmatang country. The mountain’s name is thought to be a reference to the colouring of a moth species of the same name, which has been known to turn up en masse at the Australian Open tennis tournament.
Severe droughts in recent times drove the moth to near extinction, but it seems to be making a comeback.
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The main access to the Mount Bogong summit walking trails is via Mountain Creek Campground, just inside Alpine National Park, 12km from the town of Mount Beauty.
There are a few trails that lead to the peak and they all require a high level of fitness due to steepness and rocky sections. Day hikers often choose either the Staircase Spur Track or the Eskdale Spur Track, or combine both as a loop walk. The loop is about 20km long, passing through dense eucalypt forest, crossing cool streams and traversing high mountain ridges. Above the tree line – this is snow country – expect high winds and stunning views of the surrounding alps.
The full hike can take about eight to nine hours, but if you plan to stay overnight there are a couple of campgrounds en route at Michell Hut and Bivouac Hut. Be sure to check local weather conditions before heading off.
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New South Wales
Mount Kosciuszko is, of course, the highest mountain in continental Australia, at 2228m. Though for perspective, Bolivia’s capital La Paz – a city of nearly two million people – sits 2625m above sea level, and Everest base camp welcomes climbers at 5364m. Australia isn’t very hilly.
It was named by Polish explorer Paul Edmund Strzelecki after Polish hero Tadeusz Kosciuszko.
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Our tallest peak can be found in its namesake national park. There are several walking trails to the top, and one of the most popular begins at the end of a scenic ride from Thredbo aboard the Kosciuszko Chairlift.
From the chairlift terminal, the 13km, four to six-hour return summit walk follows an elevated platform to the top of the country. Well above the tree line, the trail passes massive granite outcrops and mountain lakes, including the country’s highest body of water, Lake Cootapatamba. Be aware that the weather can change at any time, and in the cooler months the trail can disappear under a pile of snow.
Check local conditions before heading off.
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Northern Territory
At 1531m, Mount Zeil in Tjoritja/West Macdonnell National Park near Alice Springs holds two titles. It’s the tallest mountain in the NT and the highest peak west of the Great Dividing Range. It’s named after Karl Maria Eberhard, Prince of Waldburg-Zeil-Wurzach, but to the Western Arrernte people it’s known as Urlatherrke.
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Mount Zeil is in the far north-west of Tjoritja/West Macdonnell National Park. The easiest way to reach it is via the privately run Mt Zeil Wilderness Park, which offers 13 bush camp sites.
The park is 188km west of Alice Springs via the sealed Stuart Highway and Tanami Road, followed by 51km along the unsealed Kintore Road to the property’s 6km unsealed driveway. Access is usually suitable for sturdy, high clearance vehicles.
There are no marked trails to the mountain but the Wilderness Park operators can provide information and directions. Normally dense spinifex can make for a painful hike, but a recent fire has temporarily removed much of the spiky grass. Wearing spike-resistant gators is still a must.
This is rugged terrain with steep pinches and limited shade, so it’s crucial to be fit and well-prepared. Allow a full day to complete this walk.
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ACT
Located on Ngunnawal Country, Bimberi Peak is part of the Brindabella Ranges and straddles the ACT/NSW border on the edge of Namadgi National Park. Given how close it is to the nation’s capital, this 1913m-high mountain is surprisingly remote.
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Namadgi National Park, which covers almost half of the ACT, was badly damaged in the 2020 bushfire and some areas have only recently been reopened. This includes access to Orroral Valley, the main starting point for hikes to Bimberi Peak from the ACT. Trekkers can also reach the mountain from NSW.
A popular trailhead is the former Orroral Valley Tracking Station – 62km south of Canberra on a sealed road – which was once home to a 26m antenna used by NASA for keeping an eye on satellites.
Much of the 50km-return hike follows the Australian Alps Walking Track, a 655km-long trail running from Walhalla in Victoria to Tharwa, ACT. Many hikers recommend taking three days to fully enjoy the Bimberi Peak trip. The grassy field at Cotter Flat, near the Cotter River, is a popular overnight campsite.
Due to its length, a few ups and downs along the way, and a steep, rocky scramble to the summit, this hike requires a high level of fitness and preparation.
The shorter, 22km-return hike from NSW follows the Murray Gap Trail, starting on Pockets Saddle Road in Kosciuszko National Park. There’s 36km of unsealed roads from the Snowy Mountains Highway to reach the starting point, which may be closed in winter.
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