Limestone Coast by locals
Between the sinkholes and the snow-white stone of its namesake, to the rows of vines and hidden eateries making waves across the nation, the Limestone Coast is a feast for the senses. But with so much to see, how do you plan a trip? We ask the folks who know it best – the locals.
In this south-eastern region of SA, it’s the people who keep visitors coming back for more.
The locals of the Limestone Coast are a welcoming bunch – happy to direct you to your next stop-off, spin you a yarn or 7 about the history of the region, or simply tell you who serves the best steak in town.
So to help you plan your next Limestone Coast adventure, we chat to 5 residents about their travel tips, regular haunts and hidden delights in the region.
Simon & Kerry Meares Coonawarra Experiences
After moving from city jobs in Melbourne, Simon and Kerry Meares began their bespoke touring business, Coonawarra Experiences, in 2017. Based in Penola, the pair spend their days showing visitors around the region, and on their days off, explore it themselves. While the duo says it’s too hard to pick favourites, they have a few highlights to get you started.What do you love about the region?
Kerry: Coming here just feels like coming back to friends each time – it’s like a comfortable pair of shoes, in the best possible way.
Seasonal delicacies on the menu at Upstairs at Hollick Estate. Image: Ellen Morgan
Where do you love to eat?
Simon: Upstairs at Hollick Estate is incredible – the quality of food they work with is first class. If you’re looking for an incredible dining experience in the evening, Piper’s of Penola is certainly the go-to for us. It’s in an old Presbyterian church and chef Simon’s ability to layer flavours is amazing – he knocks it out of the park every time.
Piper’s of Penola restuarant. Image: Ellen Morgan
What are your favourite wineries?
Simon: The region is renowned for cabernet sauvignon – it’s the most prolific grape grown in these terra rossa soils. The region has marketed it very well as ‘Australia’s other red centre’ – you could walk into any cellar door or winery and pick up a cabernet and know it’s going to be delicious. That being said, a lot of people don’t realise how good quality the whites are, too. Kerry: Raidis Estate and The Blok Estate are boutique family businesses that make great wines. The Raidis team put on some fantastic events as well. Another great winery to visit is Bellwether because it’s an 1868 shearing property. It’s got highland cattle and a donkey and that real Australiana feel to it, [as well as] beautiful wines and the glamping tents.
Winemaking event at Raidis Estate, Coonawarra. Image: Astyn Reid
What are some unique experiences you’d recommend?
Simon: We’re about to start doing some more exclusive tours with the producers of Wrattonbully [one of the Limestone Coast’s wine regions] which doesn’t have cellar doors. Kerry: The Tantanoola Caves are great – people don’t know they exist. You should also make sure you head down to the Kilsby Sinkhole with its crystal clear waters, perfect to dive or snorkel in.
Divers swimming in light-filled Kilsby Sinkhole. Image: Adam Stern/SATC
Why should people book a tour in the region?
Simon: In our region, there are no taxis or Uber, so you really need someone who’s accredited to drive you – it just takes the hassle out of the day. We [Coonawarra Experiences] can set up the perfect itinerary for you, and introduce you to all the characters here. We try to be a real concierge for the region. Kerry: On top of all that, there’s the safety aspect, with a lot of 110km/h roads in the region. We know where we’re going and how to get you there safely. If you’d like to tick off some of Simon and Kerry’s top picks, you can book a tour online.
Steve and Emma Raidis at their vineyard in Coonawarra. Image: supplied
Emma Raidis Raidis Estate
Emma and her husband Steve are the proud owners of Raidis Estate, just outside Penola. The family-friendly winery features a cosy cellar door space and outdoor barn and lawn area, perfect for the whole family. With an impressive array of wines and resident goats, it’s not-to-be-missed. Emma and Steve, along with their 2 kids, love calling the Limestone Coast home, and welcoming visitors through their door.
The cosy Raidis Estate cellar door, Coonawarra. Image: Ellen Morgan
What are some of your favourite places to eat?
Emma: If we go out for breakfast in Mount Gambier, we go to Presto and we like Metro for lunch. For coffee we go to Bricks and Mortar, and every now and then we go to The Barn for dinner – it has a simple menu, but is done really well. We’ve eaten all over the world but we always love it there. We’ll treat ourselves to [a meal at] Mayura Station sometimes, and Steve and I often go to Ottelia and Fodder – I think that’s the best food in the region.How would you describe the wine regions in the Limestone Coast?
Emma: There are 7 different wine regions on the Limestone Coast. Mount Benson and Robe have really lovely wines – it’s a bit warmer on the coast so they’re quite different to Coonawarra wines. They have lighter reds and more whites. Mount Gambier is one of the coolest wine regions in SA, so they’re producing some beautiful pinots and chardonnays. Mount Benson and Coonawarra are the most accessible for visitors. I’m biased, but I love the Coonawarra.
Wagyu beef dish at Mayura Station. Image: Ellen Morgan