Explore the Top End

Posted 13 February, 2019 Clair Morton

When you think of the Northern Territory, what comes to mind – the arid outback, Uluru, maybe the wilds of Kakadu?   Long before I stepped foot in the NT, any mention of Darwin conjured images similar to scenes from a Mad Max film, with some crocodiles sprinkled in. I later came to realise my judgement of tropical Darwin and its nearby natural wonders was slightly off the mark (although I wasn’t wrong about the crocs). If you’re looking for an all-inclusive resort holiday or a place for a shopping spree, the Top End probably isn’t the ideal destination. That’s because most of the fun here is outdoors. Darwinians spend much of their lives outside, strolling along the beach, exploring the national parks, or sitting on their front decks watching the storms roll in. And why wouldn’t you? In the dry season, from May to October, temperatures hover between 21 and 30 degrees every day.     One of the best ways to embrace these balmy temperatures is a visit to the lively Mindil Beach Sunset Market, held on Thursday and Sunday evenings throughout the dry season. If you’re looking for a year-round market that’s local-approved, head to the Parap Village Markets on a Saturday morning. This unassuming Darwin suburb is host to food stalls that will delight the senses and tantalise the tastebuds. Ask a local to point you in the direction of Mary’s famous laksa, or indulge in a fresh mango lassi. When the warm weather gets the better of you, a visit to Berry Springs Nature Park’s refreshing pools, or a quick trip to the Darwin Harbour Wave Lagoon – open year-round – are sure to cool you down. Further afield, but still within a couple of hours of Darwin, lie Litchfield and Kakadu National Parks, which boast their own incredible water features. Litchfield National Park, sometimes referred to as Kakadu’s little brother, is home to the stunning Florence, Tolmer and Wangi waterfalls. There are also the inviting ponds of Buley Rockhole, a shady rain-forested swimming spot.     More adventurous souls will find plenty of bush walks, ranging from short 3km strolls to the epic 39km Tabletop Track. Take in the dramatic landscapes and keep an eye out for wallabies, sugar gliders and water monitors along the way. The slightly more remote, world-heritage listed Kakadu is a 20,000km2 wilderness of rugged escarpments, dramatic waterfalls and ancient Aboriginal rock art, offering a blend of other-worldly nature and culture that’ll leave you wanting more. Many places are accessible by 4WD only, so it might be a good idea to take a guided tour if you want to explore the majestic Maguk Gorge or the 200m-high Jim Jim Falls. If you strike out on your own to any of these places, be mindful that wherever there’s water in the Top End there could be crocodiles. Just how likely? Fun fact: there are an estimated 150,000 saltwater crocodiles in the NT, compared to the Territory’s population of 211,945. That’s a ratio of 1.4 people for every potential man-eater. Your best bet is to swim only where recommended and always obey warning signs.     While you won’t want to come face-to-face with a crocodile while swimming, there are plenty of safe ways to get your croc fix in the Top End. Pick up a copy of the NT News and there’s every chance there’ll be a big saltie wrestling a shark on the front cover. The Adelaide River Jumping Crocodile Cruise is a once-in-a lifetime experience that’ll have you feeling terror and excitement in equal measure. If you’re lucky, you might even get a visit from Brutus, an enormous three-limbed croc who shot to international fame in 2011, or his Adelaide River rival Dominator. For travellers short on time, or those who just really love a good adrenaline rush, the Cage of Death at Crocosaurus Cove is the NT’s equivalent of shark cage diving, and the only experience of its kind in Australia.